Liz's Story of Nelly
Mail 01 - May 25th
 



  
 

 

May 25

It is amazing how travelling can allow you to be taken from heaven to hell in a matter of hours. Our first experiences in Ukraine were definitely more on the hell end. We arrived after 24 hours of travel, dirty, sweaty, smelly and tired. Our apartment was the wrong one, our rate had been changed (more expensive not less, of course) our cell phone didn't work, the key wouldn't open the security door and we were informed that there was a major glitch in our return tickets (the Kiev-A'dam link wasn't ticketed!) No food, no bottled water, no hot water for showers, no toilet paper. Bella had a tummy bug and was vomiting, Neil was overtired and weird. It was raining and cold and the customs agent...well, she is a piece of work! Imagine a possessed Oksana Bauil in a tiny cubicle. She is grabbing customs forms and jabbing angrily at each box "No.No.No." in heavily accented English with each jab. Finally, a huge angry scribble across the form and a stern admonishment to "go back and do it correctly". Back to the customs table, back through the huge line...filled out exactly the same the second time, it is now OK. With a wave of her hand we are dismissed. "Go now". She points at the door and believe me, we obliged! Bella kept whispering "Mama, what's wrong with her?" We discussed it later and decided her feet hurt. Those fancy Eastern European shoes can't be comfy!

Dima, our young handsome translator, brought us bread, ham, cheese, tea and water. Things are looking up. A bit of cheese and bread and I feel better. Some things never change! I think Neil remembers some things, or at least things are familiar in his little psyche. This morning he asked for hot tea for breakfast instead of juice, which he has never had since leaving Russia. He informed us "hot tea for breakfast is very good". He is quite right! Some times he nods or says "uh huh" (ignore my little umlaut things - I'm using a combo English/Cyrillic keyboard) to people who speak to him in Russian. I don't know if he understands any of the words, but he acknowledges them.

The economy here is very favorable for us - I can't believe how inexpensive things are. Some things that tend to be more for tourists - hotels, restaurants, film - are less than home but not incredible, but some things are so cheap. A box of chocolates is about $1.00, a big carton or juice about the same, the bus is a dime, taxi rides not much more than a dollar. As for food, you can buy anything. Lots of produce, deli products, wonderful breads, candy, soda, chips, most of it sold from kiosks on the corners. Of course, grocery stores have it too, and so many other things that I got a bit overwhelmed. The taxi thing is so strange - just flag down pretty much any car and tell them where you want to go. They'll tell you how much they want to take you there. People on their way to work, college students going to class, regular taxis, whatever. If they have room and want an extra dollar or two, they stop. We have only done this with our translator, everywhere else we walk.

Kiev is gorgeous. It looks a bit like London with the circles and turnarounds, and a bit like Paris with the old facades and cobblestones, and it sounds like Manhattan at noon - it is one LOUD, urban place! The weather today is sunny and bright, we have hot water and the kids are feeling better. We went out for pizza and it was really good. Not American or Italian by any stretch, but good. The travel agent thinks they can fix our tickets for no extra charges, and we figured out the security door. A very different day than yesterday! More later. Love you all!

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